One day in Tongyeong: a harbour market, two hills, and an island ropeway

Tongyeong (통영) is a harbour town on Korea's south coast, about four hours by express bus from Seoul. One unhurried day covers it well. You do almost all of it on foot, with a single ride up a mountain.

Start at Jungang Market

Jungang Market (중앙시장, Jungang Sijang) runs along the harbour front and is busiest before noon, while the catch is still on ice. Order chungmu gimbap (충무김밥) from a shop facing the water: plain rice rolls in seaweed, with spicy squid and radish kimchi served on the side. The parts stay fresh because they are kept apart, which is why fishermen packed it for the boats.

통영의 하루는 시장에서 시작된다.

Two hills facing each other

Above the market, Dongpirang (동피랑) is a hillside village whose walls are repainted by artists every few years. People still live behind those walls, so keep your voice down. Across the harbour, Seopirang (서피랑) is quieter. You reach it by a stairway of 99 steps, and a pavilion at the top looks back over the boats. Most visitors climb only the first hill. Walking both takes about two hours.

Up Mireuksan by ropeway

A short bus or taxi ride takes you across to Mireukdo, where a ropeway carries you most of the way up Mireuksan (미륵산). From the summit deck, the Hallyeo waterway breaks into dozens of small green islands. Check that the ropeway is running before you go, because the cabins stop in high wind.

Before the bus home

Back in town, buy a box of kkulppang (꿀빵) for the journey. It is fried bread glazed in syrup and filled with red bean. Eat dinner near the harbour, where raw-fish restaurants weigh the catch at the counter before they cut it. On weekends, book your return bus in advance.